When the conversation turns to South American wine, it usually sounds as if there are only two countries on the continent: Argentina and Chile. Malbec put Argentina on the world wine map and 98% of the world Carmenere supply comes from Chile. While these countries have attracted attention for good reason, their neighbors to the north are worth talking about too. Brazil, Uruguay and Peru are producing fine and exciting wine still in its infancy and their wines are not mass-marketed, these regions are worth getting to know now, before the inevitable explosion of interest.
Wine Varietals to Know
Malbec, Argentina
Malbec is originally from France, particularly the Cahors area. The grape has poor resistance to weather and pests so never became a top varietal in France even though it is one of the six varietals permitted in a French red Bordeaux blend. A Frenchman planted it in Mendoza in 1868 where it is now widely planted. Argentina has reinvigorated the world’s interest in Malbec, making this French blending grape the top level of a main attraction in Argentina. It is now widely accepted as a grape for “regular” people; however, it comes in a range of winemaking styles making it a wine for “all” people!
- Now there are OLD VINE Malbecs some which have been there for over a century. These vines make wild and floral wine with silky-smooth tannins and fresh acidity. They are also often made into a field blend of other local old vine varietals.
- FRUITY EVERYDAY Malbec can be lush and concentrated easy drinking at much easier price points. Many of these have a bit of oak-aging structure. These go for $10 and up.
- TOP DOLLAR TOP UCO Malbecs are the very top level Malbecs and are from the Uco Valley in Mendoza, Argentina. These are world class wines and can cost over $50.
Carmenere, Chile
Carmenere is another French grape that found its way across the ocean and is now widely grown in Chile. Actually it was mistaken brought to Chile as Merlot where it grew all over the country until it discovered in 1994 that it was actually the “lost grape” Carmenere from France. Unfortunately consumers didn’t buy it due to quality of the finished product. The quality is now better than it was 5 or 6 years ago resulting in a Carmenere revival. Well-made Carmenere should be easy to drink with fleshy fruit and herbal spice, styles ranging from plummy and rich with sweeter oak aging to fresher with wild herb and bell pepper notes. Chile now makes 98% of the world’s Carmenere.
Bonarda, Argentina
Prior to the Malbec boom, Bonarda was the most widely planted red grape varietal in Argentina. Often seen as an alternative to Malbec, it is vinified in the same way.
- TRADITIONAL Bonarda wines are jammy and fruit-forward.
- FRESH FLIRTY Bonarda has a shorter maceration and some whole cluster carbonic maceration making them lighter and fruitier.
- SERIOUS Bonarda from the Uco Valley skip the oak, are aged in cement eggs and result in darker fruit and floral Bonarda with finesse.
Torrontέs, Argentina
Torrontes is a white grape varietal native to South America and is now the “Queen of Argentina”. It is a cross between Pais (Criolla) and Muscat. Torrontes trademark traits are floral, fruity, tropical on the nose but bone dry and sometimes a little bitter in the mouth.
País (Criolla), Chile
Pais or Criolla was one of the first grapes to be planted in the Americas (“Mission” in the US) and was the most widely planted grape in South America. The old vines eventually were condemned to table wine and largely forgotten. In the last few years some Chilean winemakers have rediscovered it and are making some interesting wines from it.
- RUSTIC Pais are usually small production using natural production methods and are earthy with rustic fruit flavors and sometimes floral notes.
- MODERN MEAUJOLOAIS-STYLE Pais uses carbonic maceration to capture fresh fruit flavors and light crisp finish. There is also some sparkling pink Pais made in traditional Champenoise method.
Tannat, Uruguay
Tannat makes a dark dry red wine with high acidity and high tannins, and has now put Uruguay on the winemaking map. The best tannat comes from a long time in an oak barrel followed by long time in the bottle. Many Uruguayan winemakers blend it with Merlot and even Pinot Noir.
Carignan (Cariñena), Chile
This grape was originally planted to add to the Pais but the old vines now make aromatic red-fruit driven wines with spicy notes and fresh acidity. It is lean and fresh with great acidic structure making it an excellent BBQ wine.
Cabernet Franc, Argentina and Chile
Not to be left out of the worldwide resurgence of Cabernet Franc, both Argentina and Chile are now producing some excellent cab francs.
Pinot Noir, Argentina and Chile
Most of the usual varietals can be found somewhere in Argentina and Chile: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, etc., but one that has been known to grow well only in a few parts of the world is now growing with good results in both Argentina and Chile -– Pinot Noir! Patagonia in particular is producing some excellent pinots. Quite notable is Chacra Barda Pinot Noir that is grown and produced by Piero Incisa della Rocchetta, nephew of Sassicaia producer Nicolo Rocchetta on his Bolgheri estate Tenuta San Guido. There are many other famous winemakers from other continents looking for new frontiers and challenges now making great wine in South America; just a few are Chateau Lafitte-Rothchild, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle, Errazuriz-Mondavi creation of Sena, Paul Hobbs from California.
South American Countries to Know Now
Argentina
Argentina is the world’s fifth largest wine producers. It has eight principal wine regions reaching from the Andes Mountains to the Patagonia pampas. Mendoza dominates, producing over 70% of Argentina’s wines. It has been referred to as the Napa Valley of 30 years ago. The Uco Valley is one of the best known wine regions of Mendoza.
The Argentinian climate is continental, with large temperature swings between day and night, and four full seasons offering hot summers and cold winters. Elevation is also a key factor influencing wine quality. There are high mountains, lush forests, plains and deserts. Winemaking regions here are referred to as “oases” since they develop amidst arid dry regions. Wines here typically have intense colors, deep aromas, and a broad range of flavors. White varieties best known are Torrontés, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio while red varieties include Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Bonarda, Syrah, Tempranillo and Pinot Noir.
Wine sales peaked back in 2012, exports fell for the next three years, but following last years change in government with goals for eliminating a hefty wine export duty, the wine industry is once again looking more promising.
Chile
The country of Chile averages just 110 miles in width, so you’re never far from the mountains or the ocean. The wine growing area spans 800+ miles and is divided into 14 regions. 75% of the wine-producing vineyards grow red grapes. One-third of the grape production is Cabernet Sauvignon. Maipo, Colchagua, Aconcagua and Rapel Valley are the names to know for cab. Chile’s proprietary grape, Carmenere, is widely grown in Maipo, Aconcagua, Cachapoal and Colchaqua. The middle part of Chile is the heartland and home to Chile’s best-known wines and produces 90% of its exports. The southern part of Chile is drastically different from the rest of its wine regions. It rains here and has now been found to be a classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir producing regions. No longer is Chile just a producer of “value” wine!
Up-and-Coming South American Winemaking Countries
Brazil
The Portuguese began growing grapes in Brazil in the 1600s. Viticulture was of little importance, however, until Italian immigrant farmers settled there toward the end of the 19th century. Migrating to the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul, they planted native Italian grapes alongside other crops. Commercial vineyards in Brazil grew slowly owing to sparse local consumption and a lack of government interest, but in the last 25 years descendants of the original settlers have begun to create commercial wineries. Today there are six main wine making regions with approximately 150 wineries producing fine wines. There are about 1,100 additional wineries mainly located on small farms. Only 20 or so producers have regular business in the US, UK or the rest of Europe. For example, Cave Geisse winery is making some highly acclaimed sparkling wines that unfortunately can only be purchased from the UK.
Uruguay
Uruguay is the fourth-largest wine producer in South America. Immigrants came here mainly from Italy, Spain, France and the Basque region. As in Brazil, Uruguay’s wine industry went through sweeping changes in the 1980s, ushering in the modern, quality-driven trade seen today. The Tannat grape has become the center of Uruguay’s viticulture. Native to the southwest of France and brought here by the French Basques, Tannat thrives in Uruguay’s soil. Although it’s a naturally tannic and astringent grape, the warmer climate of this region softens the hard edges, creating a dark, balanced, full-bodied wine bursting with flavor.
Peru
Viticulture in Peru predates Brazil’s and Uruguay’s. As immigrants were just beginning to plant Vinifera grapes in neighboring countries, the phylloxera louse was devastating Peru’s 300-year-old vines. Today most of Peru’s grape acreage lies in the province of Ica and supports the production of pisco, an aromatic brandy made from Muscat. There is now renewed interest in fine wine, however, and many bodegas are getting serious about it. Tannat does well here, as does Petit Verdot, another underutilized French variety.
Though most of the wines made in these up-and-coming countries are not yet readily available, the importance of these countries is sure to increase exponentially in the years to come. It is easy to forget that Argentina’s Malbec and Chile’s Carménère were obscure wines just a short time ago. Tannat is poised to become South America’s newest discovery as an international audience is beginning to take notice and talk. Soon we may all be including tannat on our home wine cellar inventory!
10.18.16
